Saturday, May 7, 2016

Day 11: Mayfield, KY, to Cairo, IL 50 miles; total miles 608 Saturday, April 30, 2016

We had heavy rain overnight, forecast to end at 10 am, so we planned a late start. The weather cooled considerably, dropping into the 50s, pretty cold if wet. However, we slept in and were able to start about 9 am with wet roads but no rain. Fenders were essential.

Bike tourists have to innovate. To minimize weight, we usually carry only two sets of riding clothes. We wash them each night and hope they dry by the next day to avoid packing damp clothing. Other than air drying, we sometimes resort to using the hair dryer, draping them over lamp shades, and zapping in the microwave. Cotton and wool are notoriously slow drying, so I thought why not try the microwave. 

Drying cotton socks in the microwave. Monitor and remove when they start to steam.

Cogent Kentucky restroom advice.


First and only flat tire. Typical after rain, fine bits of glass rise to the surface and embed tires.  At least it was not raining and we had a wide shoulder.

John offering sage advice.

Wickcliffe Indian Mounds

Another State. One day in Kentucky; one day in Illinois.

Cairo, IL, Mansion. Numerous mansions in west Cairo indicated prior prosperity. Unfortunately, as maintenance cost rise, businesses and residents depart, and many houses are in poor repair. Seems that President Grant stayed here for a few days after his presidency was over.

Someone famous slept here, too.

Limited Options. A nice woman stopped to ask where we were traveling, and then said that Shemwell's offered great BBQ, the only option other than Subway. Our hotel, the Quality Inn, was 3 miles out of Cairo and featured a desk clerk that was hating life. Her eating recommendation was the nearby Dollar General store, offering mostly fried items in cellophane bags. John persuaded me to bike 6 miles (no trailer) for take-out BBQ. Our Shemwell's dinner comprised 1/2 pound smoked turkey, 1/2 pound pork, a pint of baked beans, and ice cream from the Dollar General. They only offer ribs on Wednesday. 

Once a major shipping port, Cairo was trying to emulate Cape Girardeau and other river towns by commissioning murals on the levee wall, but not much to see. John accurately described Cairo's main street as a s**t hole. 

Storms with hail were forecast at 3 pm but did not materialize. We met two touring cyclists as we entered Cairo, going on to Cape Girardeau and staying with the same Warm Showers host that we had booked for Sunday evening. As it happened, we could have made it to Cape Girardeau as well, but we felt no need to push the mileage with the storm forecast.

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